If you blink, things seem to change in Atlanta. What was once the chain restaurant Copeland’s has now been transformed into a beautiful, sexy space called Modern Restaurant and Bar. Open only a handful of months, Modern seems to be slowly catching on with the Buckhead scene. I was invited to sample the cuisine and, although sparsely populated when I arrived, Modern had picked up a decent crowd by the time I was leaving.
The bar at Modern was hopping on the Thursday evening I visited. I didn’t try any cocktails, instead opting for a reasonably priced Pinot Noir from Modern’s diverse wine list. The La Crema Pinot went well with both the fish and duck ordered, but I’m getting ahead of myself.
To start, the appetizers are divided in to hot and cold sections, a total of 20 in all. I was tempted by so many items like the Lobster with Chanterelles, white Asparagus, and Truffle oil, or the Mushroom Tart or the Carolina Quail. If you aren’t tempted by at least five different items from the appetizer section, then you probably should be checked for a pulse.
Ultimately, I settled on the Tuna Tartare and Veal Cheeks with Gnocchi. The tuna was a huge portion, more than the toast points served up with it could handle – not a bad thing. Ooh and the veal cheeks! So tender and oh so tasty. The gnocchi didn’t get me overly excited but the veal was so damn good I didn’t care.
Entrees were an easier choice – Chilean Seabass and Duck. I was thrilled to see Seabass on the menu as it is one of my favorites and has been hard to find in the last handful of years. But is there some rule that it must ALWAYS be served that way – over jasmine rice with bok choy? I’m not arguing the Seabass wasn’t perfectly executed, buttery and all, but I’d be open it having it with other sides. Just sayin.
The duck, my friends, was divine. Crispy on the outside and juicy and flavorful on the inside. It was served atop a carrot-ginger puree. What a bright, verdant color, huh? Don’t miss out on dessert as the pastry chefs at Modern Restaurant are very talented. Chocolate Torte and Lemon and Honey creme brulee? Yes, please.
The space is pretty large. I noticed several parties in the private rooms and even with the bar area heavily populated, the noise didn’t spill over to the dining area. If you do find yourself there on a date night, which I highly recommend, ask to be seated in one of the few gangster booths, complete with curtains for full privacy.
3365 Piedmont Rd.
Atlanta, GA 30305
Modern Restaurant and Bar Website